How To Build A Simple Cabinet Door – We have the first piece of furniture moved into the Momplex – the bath tub – a while back
There are thousands of different ways to build doors – and some ways could be argued to be better than others. This is simply my way of quickly, easily and accurately building doors that are structurally sound and will resist warping and otherwise behave like wood sometimes does over time.
How To Build A Simple Cabinet Door
For this vanity – and for many projects I build – and especially painting ones – I simply take a piece of 1/2″ hardwood plywood (I like to use PureBond whenever possible because it’s formaldehyde free and North American made) and attach it. to frame made of 1x3s with pocket holes.
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Because the center panel is plywood, it resists shrinking and growing, but the wood frame helps keep the panel structurally strong and covers the plywood edges.
These types of doors are better suited for paint grade projects or projects where the back of the door is hidden because there are a ton of pocket holes on the back, which of course I fill with plugs or wood filler.
I love this type of door construction because it is so quick and easy to build an accurate door with minimal tools – no router and expensive piece required! But you need to be able to make very precise and square cuts on your plywood panels to make these doors. A table saw, rip cut or using a square edge to cut is highly recommended. If your panels are small enough, you may even be able to cut them with a miter saw.
RAILS – 1×3 hardwood boards (measuring 2 1/2″ wide) cut 5″ less than the desired finished door dimensions
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Please read the entire plan and all comments before starting this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and intelligently. Work on a clean, flat surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check square after each step. Always pre-drill holes before fixing with screws. Use glue with finished nails for a stronger hold. Wipe off excess glue from bare wood for stained projects, as dry glue will not stain. Be safe, have fun and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
It is very important to get this plywood panel cut square and straight. If you can, cut with a miter saw or other fixed saw, or a table saw. If you are cutting with a circular saw, use a straight edge or rip cut to guide you.
Then drill 1/2″ pocket holes around the four sides of the panel, approximately every 8″ or so – use your best judgment here. You should make at least two pocket holes on each side of the panel.
Next, attach your rails to the top and bottom, through the 1/2″ pocket holes with 1″ pocket hole screws. The back will be flush and all outer edges must be flush.
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Drill 3/4″ pocket holes on the ends of the rails to attach the stiles in the next step.
Finally, attach the stiles to the rails and panel, using 1″ and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws as noted in the diagram (1″ for 1/2″ pocket holes, 1 1/4″ for 3/4″ pocket holes) . All outer edges and back are flush.
Fill all the holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sand residues. Remove all sand residue on work surfaces as well. Clean the project with a damp cloth.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or patch to ensure color evenness and adherence. Use a primer or wood conditioner as needed.Introduction If you have a table saw, you can make Shaker-style cabinet doors. You don’t need any special tools – just your saw, large or small, a miter gauge and a sharp blade. And you don’t need specially prepared wood; home center material will be fine.
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Shaker cabinet doors have a timeless look that works in both traditional and modern kitchens. And they’re surprisingly easy to make at home – with just a table saw and intermediate carpentry skills.
Plan to use 1×3 or 1×4 hardwood boards for the door frame. You will find this material at most home centers and lumberyards. Store bought wood has very straight and square edges. For the best results, use the wood in the widths it comes in. Narrower boards torn from wider ones have a good chance of warping, a problem you won’t be able to fix. Plus, you’ll have a hard time making the new torn edge smooth, square, and crisp, which you’ll need for tight seams. Be selective when choosing your wood. Saw each piece to make sure it is flat and straight. If it isn’t, your cabinet door won’t be flat or straight either, and it certainly won’t close properly! For the panel, look for 1/4-inch plywood that lies flat.
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But, seriously. All cabinets are basically the same thing… just a simple box. (I have a tutorial on cabinet boxes here *wink*) But the doors…OH THE DOORS. Those are the stars of the show.
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So when my very traditional sister asked me to build her new cabinets, of course, the doors were a major concern.
She didn’t want a standard shaker style door with a flat, square frame and interior panel ….like this one from my old laundry closets.
No, she wanted a decorative border along the inside of the door frame. I don’t have a lot of fancy cabinet door making tools, so I took the poor man’s approach to building these and they turned out, honestly, better than I expected.
But enough talk, let’s get to the how. I have the step by step tutorial for you below as well as a video ?
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For this situation, I built my sister brand new cabinets. And she wanted them painted white. So I went with poplar for the door frames and ¼” birch plywood for the panels. I chose these options because they are easy to work with and paint very well.
However, if you’re not painting and simply replacing doors on existing cabinets, you’ll probably want to match the wood type and color of what you already have.
I built my cabinet doors with simple frames and floating panels (as in the panels “float” inside the frame). There are a million ways to make a door, but this method is pretty simple and worked with the tools I already had.
The first thing I did was cut a ¼″ dado (basically
, a groove if you don’t know dad) on one edge of all my 1×3 poplar pieces so the panel would fit.
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I installed my dado blade in my table saw and set it to cut a ¼″ dado, be ¼” from the rib fence, and cut ¼” high. Since my 1x3s were ¾” thick, this would put my dad in the center of the board and ¼″ deep.
However, if you don’t have a pan blade, you can set your regular blade ¼″ from the rib fence and go through the board once, turn it about 180 degrees and roll it again, then adjust a little to clean what’s left inside. the middle between the two cuts.
After all the dads were cut (there were 28 boards for all of my sister’s cabinet doors—TWENTY EIGHT…), I started going through the decorative edging. Since my sister likes to complicate things (love you, Sissy!), she didn’t want just a simple shaker style door. She wanted the inside edge to have this little something.
So I used my trim router and round top bit to cut a nice round edge on the same side of the board as the dad.
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Side note: I’ll admit, this really made these doors look nicer than a standard, plain square edge…BUT it added quite a bit of work. See step 5…
I know you will be wondering how to determine the size your door should be. I LOVE math, so it’s fun for me, but I know it can be a little overwhelming at times. So I made these graphics to help ? Cabinets usually come one of two ways—with a face frame on the front or frameless. (I prefer frameless, but most people have face frames.)
For cabinets with face frames, if you are making inset doors, subtract ¼” from both the height and width of your frame opening to get your door.
For cabinets with face frames, if you are doing partial cladding, add 2 times whatever you want your cladding to be to the height and width of your interior opening (and
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